Even though every one of the city's 200-odd bus and trolleybus services runs about once a minute, you'll find getting on or off at busy times hard work (rush hours are from 7-9am & 4.30-6pm). Forget about trying to see much of the city from the window, as views tend to be limited to the backs of necks. In winter buses are notable for their distinct aroma, something like garlic and boiled cabbage. The fare for ordinary buses depends how far you are going but never exceeds £¤2 and is usually £¤0.5 - watch how the Chinese wrap up a one-fen coin in two two-fen notes to make a little origami package to give the conductor. Less aromatic and a little more comfortable, if slower, are the minibuses , which ply the same routes as the buses and charge £¤2 per journey. There are also five comfortable double-decker bus services, costing £¤2 a trip. Services generally run from 5.30am to 11pm everyday, though some are 24-hour. Buses numbered in the 200s only provide night services. Routes are efficiently organized and easy to understand - an important factor, since stops tend to be a good kilometre apart. Buses numbered in the 800s are modern, air-conditioned, and actually quite pleasant, but more expensive, with fares starting at £¤3 and going up to £¤10.

A word of warning - be very wary of pickpockets on buses. Skilful thieves here target Westerners, and especially backpackers, looking not just for money but coveted Western passports.